 025-83248580 83248685
 sales@njtn.com(客户服务) hr@njtn.com(人才招聘)
 中国南京市鼓楼区汉口路22号临街1-103(南京大学正门东20米) |
|
|
|
 |
翻译动态 |
京师雅宅——北京四合院
Elegant Houses in the Capital: Beijing Siheyuan
前 言
Foreword
说起老北京的代表建筑，恐怕人人都能数得上一大串：天安门、故宫、天坛、北海、琉璃厂、国子监、潭柘寺、白云观……各有各的魅力，各有各的奥妙。这些城门、宫殿、坛庙、园林、寺观像一块块的宝石，镶嵌在北京这个聚宝盆一样的古城内外。但是，仅仅拥有故宫、天坛、北海的北京还称不上是真正完整的北京，那些分布全城的四合院同样是老北京文化遗产中不可缺少的组成部分，同样蕴含着悠远浑厚的京味与京韵。
Everybody can roll out a long list of structures typical of Old Beijing, such as Tiananmen, the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Beihai, Liulichang, the Imperial College, Tanzhe Temple and White Cloud Temple, each with unique charm and secrets. The city gates, palaces, temple, gardens and monasteries adorn the inside and outside of the historic city like precious stones. However, Beijing would not be complete if it only had the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven and Beihai, for the siheyuan (Chinese quadrangles) all over the city, which are rich in Beijing culture, are no less indispensable as part of Old Beijing's cultural heritage.
四合院是北京最典型的住宅形式，撒满了城内的每条胡同。
Siheyuan, the most typical form of residence in Beijing, are found in every hutong (alley) of the city.
四合院由大门、倒座房、垂花门、正房、厢房、后照房等不同房屋组成围合的院落空间，并且根据主人的身份和住宅的规模可以演变出各种繁简不同的组合形式。方正对称的格局，尊卑有序的空间，浑厚敦实的风格，浓荫遮蔽的院落，隔绝尘嚣，自成一方天地，也成为北京人最理想的生活场所。其中的建筑都采用典型的北方官式手法砌筑，色彩凝重，表现出北方文化端庄大方的风格，与素雅灵秀的江南建筑形成鲜明的对比。
A siheyuan is a courtyard composed of a main gate, an opposite house (daozuo), a festooned gate, a main house, side houses and a backside house. The form may range from simplicity to complexity according to the owner's status and the scale of the houses. It has a square, symmetrical layout representing the hierarchy, a natural and solemn style and a secluded courtyard in the dense shade of trees, which makes the most ideal residence for Beijingers. All the houses are built with the typical official style of the north, with dignified colors showing the good taste of northern culture, in sharp contrast with the delicate houses south of the Yangtze.
自元代以来，无论是王公大臣、富商巨贾，还是文人学士、普通百姓，都住在大大小小的四合院中。从广厦连屋的大宅门，到格局紧凑的小户人家，北京四合院演绎出辉煌与平淡交织的无数篇章。敞亮的院子、宽阔的正屋、秀丽的垂花门、灵巧的厢房，承载着北京人几百年来的日常生活，散发着经久不息的永恒魅力。
Since the Yuan Dynasty, siheyuan of various sizes have been home to princes, ministers, wealthy merchants, men of letters and common people. Splendor and simplicity are interwoven by grand mansions with many houses and compact yards. With light and spacious yards, broad main houses, elegant festooned gates and delicate side houses, siheyuan has been the stage for Beijingers' everyday life for centuries, and its charm is eternal.
如果把城墙比作北京的皮肤，故宫比作北京的心脏，那么遍布全城的四合院就是老北京的血肉。一旦失去了大片的四合院，北京也就失去了城市的肌理血脉和几百年流传下来的纯厚气息，变成一个没有灵魂的二流城市。珍爱四合院，保护四合院，把这些珍贵的建筑及其中所蕴涵的传统文化继续传承下去，是每一个热爱北京的人的共同责任。
If the city wall is the skin of Beijing and the Forbidden City its heart, the siheyuan all over it are its flesh and blood. Without them, Beijing would lose its flesh, blood and the simple and honest air handed down from centuries ago and turn into a second-rate city without a soul. It is a common responsibility for all those who love Beijing to cherish siheyuan, protect them, and preserve these valuable structures and the traditional culture they embody.
目 录
Contents
前 言 Foreword 1
目 录 Contents 2
第一章 四合院与北京城 Chapter I. Siheyuan and Beijing 4
1 中国合院住宅的演变 The evolution of Chinese heyuan 4
2 从元大都到明清北京 From Dadu of Yuan to Beijing of Ming and Qing 5
3 胡同空间 Hutong 6
第二章 四合院的基本格局 The Basic Layout of Siheyuan 9
1 典型四合院布局 The typical layout 9
2 四合院的并联组合形式 Parallel layout 10
3 带花园的四合院 Siheyuan with gardens 10
4 四合院中的庭院景观 The landscaping of siheyuan 10
第三章 四合院的建筑构成 The Architectural Makeup of Siheyuan 12
1 屋有三分 A house is divided into three parts 12
2 台基 The base 12
3 屋身大木作 The carpentry of the house 12
4 外墙 The outer walls 14
5 屋顶 The roof 15
6 外檐装修 Exterior finish 16
7 内檐装修 Interior fit-up 16
8 家具陈设 Furnishings 17
第四章 四合院的房屋类型 The Types of Houses in Siheyuan 18
1 大门 The front gate 18
2 垂花门 The festooned gate 19
3 正房 The main house 19
4 厢房 The side houses 19
5 耳房 The wing houses 20
6 倒座房 The opposite house 20
7 后照房 The backside house 20
8 游廊 The veranda 20
9 照壁与院墙 The screen wall and the yard wall 20
第五章 四合院的建造施工 Chapter V. The Construction of Siheyuan 22
1 测平定向 Leveling and orientation 22
2 夯土筑基 Ramming earth and building the bases 22
3 石作 Masonry 22
4 木料加工 The processing of timber 22
5 榫卯 Tenons and mortises 23
6 叠梁架屋 The beam mount 23
7 砖作 Brickwork 23
8 瓦作 Tilework 24
9 木装修 Wooden fit-up 24
10 雕饰 Carvings 24
11 油饰彩画 Painting and colored patterns 25
第六章 清代经典府宅四合院撷英 Chapter VI. Selected Classic Residential Siheyuan of the Qing Dynasty 27
1 孚王府 Prince Fu’s mansion 27
2 恭王府 Prince Gong’s mansion 28
3 崇礼宅 The house of Chongli 30
4 文煜宅 The house of Wenyu 31
5 麟庆宅 The house of Linqing 32
6 张之洞宅 The house of Zhang Zhidong 33
7 荣源宅 The house of Rongyuan 34
8 纪昀宅 The house of Ji Yun 35
第七章 近现代文化名人故居四合院例说 Chapter VII. Siheyuan that Are the Former Residences of Modern Cultural Luminaries 36
1 鲁迅故居 The former residence of Lu Xun 36
2 郭沫若故居 The former residence of Guo Moruo 37
3 老舍故居 The former residence of Lao She 37
4 茅盾故居 The former residence of Mao Dun 38
5 齐白石故居 The former residence of Qi Baishi 38
6 梅兰芳故居 The former residence of Mei Lanfang 38
第八章 四合院的文化内涵与生活情韵 Chapter VIII. The Cultural Implications of Siheyuan and the Charm of Living in Them 40
1 风水禁忌 Fengshui taboos 40
2 伦理秩序 The ethical order 40
3 隔绝内外 Isolation from the outside 41
4 静美天地 A tranquil and beautiful place 41
5 雅居生活 Refined living 42
结 语 Conclusion 44
参考书目 Bibliography 45
致谢 Acknowledgements 47
第一章 四合院与北京城
Chapter I. Siheyuan and Beijing
1 中国合院住宅的演变
1. The evolution of Chinese heyuan
老北京人把四合院叫做“四合房”，顾名思义，就是“四面都用房子围合起来”的住宅。其实中国传统住宅有很多都是围合的院落形式，统称为“合院住宅”，北京四合院是其中最典型的一种（图1-1-01）。
Old Beijingers call siheyuan by the name of sihefang, or 'residence enclosed by houses on the four sides'. In fact, many of the traditional Chinese residences are in the form of enclosed compounds, which are generally referred to as heyuan, and Beijing siheyuan is the most typical variety (Fig. 1-1-01).
中国的合院住宅有很早的历史渊源。陕西岐山凤雏村有一片西周时期留下的住宅遗址（图1-1-02），分为前后两个院子，四面都有房子围合。现代学者根据先秦的文献推断，这所合院住宅的大门前有影壁，前一个院子的正房是前堂，主要用于举行宴会以及礼仪活动；后一个院子的正房是后室，用作主人的日常起居，东西两侧的房子分别给家中其他成员居住。整个住宅的形式已经很清楚地把内外区分开，并且显示出家庭内部的等级秩序。
Chinese heyuan have a long history. There are the ruins of a house of the Western Zhou Dynasty (Fig. 1-1-02) in Fengchu Village, Qishan, Shaanxi, which consists of a front yard and a back yard and is enclosed by houses on four sides. Modern scholars have deducted from pre-Qin records that there used to be a screen wall in front of the main gate, that the main house in the front yard was the front hall for banquets and ritual activities, that the main house in the back yard was the rear house for the owner's everyday life, and that the houses in the east and the west were inhabited by other members of the family. The form of the residence shows a clear distinction between the inner part and the outer part as well as the hierarchy within the family.
汉代的画像砖揭示当时合院住宅内的生活图景。有一块四川出土的东汉画像砖上描绘的一户人家拥有多个院子（图1-1-03），四周全部用房子或者廊子来围合，大门偏西，正堂很宽敞，前面的庭院中有两只鹤在翩翩起舞，东侧的院子里还建了一座高高的望楼，整组建筑形式十分丰富。
Brick carvings of the Han Dynasty show scenes from life in heyuan during that period. An Eastern Han brick carving unearthed in Sichuan shows a household possessing several yards (Fig. 1-1-03) enclosed by houses and verandas, with a main gate in the west, a spacious main house, two cranes in the yard in front of it, and a high watchtower in the eastern yard. The whole compound is rich in form.
魏晋南北朝以后，合院住宅继续发展，并已经成为中国主流的住宅形式。隋唐五代时期，合院住宅的形式更加丰富，敦煌壁画中有很多图案表现深宅大院中的绚丽生活（图1-1-04——图1-1-05）。
During the Wei Dynasty, the Jin Dynasty and the Southern and Northern Dynasties, heyuan continued to develop and made its way into the mainstream of Chinese residence. The Sui Dynasty, Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties saw further diversification of heyuan, which gave rise to many images in Dunhuang murals showing the luxurious life in grand mansions (Fig. 1-1-04~1-1-05).
宋代的《清明上河图》、《千里江山图》等巨幅画卷中都绘有城市和乡村中的合院住宅形象（图1-1-06——图1-1-07），其中的前堂和后室之间常常用一道廊子串连起来，形成一个“工”字形的平面。这种形式也被元代的合院住宅所继承。
Images of urban and rural heyuan are found in large paintings of the Song Dynasty, such as Along the River during the Qingming Festival and The Vast Landscape (Fig. 1-1-06~1-1-07). The front houses and the back houses are usually connected by a veranda to form an I-shaped plan. The form continued to be adopted for heyuan of the Yuan Dynasty.
明清以来，中国传统的合院住宅趋于高度成熟，并且在不同的地区形成特色鲜明的地域风格。除了北京典型的四合院之外，东北、山西、宁夏等北方地区都有大同小异的四合院出现，南方的合院住宅形式更为丰富，包括江浙地区的“四水归堂”、徽州地区的马头墙民居、广东地区的“广厦连屋”、云南地区的“一颗印”等等，蔚为大观（图1-1-08——图1-1-12）。
During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, traditional Chinese heyuan attained a high degree of maturity, with distinct styles characteristic of different regions. Besides the typical siheyuan in Beijing, similar siheyuan appeared in such northern regions as northeast China, Shanxi and Ningxia. Southern heyuan are richer in form, with a splendid array formed by sishuiguitang in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, corbie-step houses in Huizhou, guangshalianwu in Guangdong, and seal-like compounds in Yuannan (Fig. 1-1-08~1-1-12).
如果我们把视野放得更开阔一些，就会发现不但中国古代住宅以合院的形式为主，外国古代也有很多住宅同样采用院落的形式。古西亚地区早在五六千年之前就善于利用厚厚的土坯墙围成独立的宅院；古罗马人的住宅不但围合成院落，而且还进一步在院子中开辟水池和喷泉，再加上绿化，构成令人向往的美好家居环境（图1-1-13）；古代伊斯兰住宅同样在庭院的四周用柱廊围合，院子里常常挖出十字形的水渠，以象征《古兰经》中的“天园”（图-1-14——图1-1-15）；文艺复兴之后的欧洲兴建了大量的府邸，几乎都采用合院形式，把2－4层的大楼与内部隐秘的庭院结合在一起（图1-1-16）。
A broader horizon will reveal that the courtyard was also a common form of residence in foreign countries in ancient times. People in West Asia were good at enclosing separate yards with thick adobe walls five or six thousand years ago. Ancient Roman residences were not only enclosed as yards, but they also had pools and fountains and were beautifully landscaped (Fig. 1-1-13). Ancient Islamic courtyards were also enclosed with colonnades on the four sides, with cross-shaped canals in the yards, to symbolize the paradise described in the Koran (Fig. 1-1-14~1-1-15). A large number of mansions were built in Europe after the Renaissance, and almost all of them are in the form of enclosed compounds, with the second to the fourth stories of buildings combined with secluded yards (Fig. 1-1-16).
为什么中外都把合院作为住宅的主要形式呢？侯幼彬先生曾经做过一个细致的分析，认为合院住宅中的庭院四周闭合而露天，可以营造出内部良好的小气候，减少不良外在气候的影响。一方面在夏天可以有效地遮阴、纳凉，冬天又可以很好地采光、保暖、抵御风沙。露天通透的庭院既是入风口，也是出风口，通过自然的风压得到流畅的通风，保证健康清新的空气质量。此外，庭院还有利于排水和收集雨水，更可以引入各种植物，形成湿润而充满绿意的小环境，最适合人类居住生活 （图1-1-17）。
Why was heyuan adopted as the main form of residences in China and foreign countries alike? Mr. Hou Youbin has made a detailed analysis, proposing that the yard, enclosed on the four sides while open above, could create a good internal climate and reduce the effect of adverse outside climate, providing cool shade in summer and light, warmth and protection against sandstorm in winter. The uncovered yard provides entrance and exit for wind, getting good ventilation from natural wind pressure and ensuring healthy and fresh air. Yards facilitate drainage and collecting rainwater, and, moreover, plants can be grown there to form a humid, green environment which is the most agreeable for human habitation (Fig. 1-1-17).
还有学者专门分析过合院式布局与独立式布局的差异。我们把一块方形的用地划分成100（10×10）格，来探讨一下划分建筑和空地的几种可能性（图1-1-18）。A模式是建筑分布于庭院四周的合院式布局，B模式和C模式都是建筑位于庭院正中的独立式布局。按照B模式来布置，建筑面积占36%，可以在周边得到64%的空地面积，建筑面积偏小；按照C模式来布置，建筑面积占64%，空地面积占36%，但都是围绕周边的窄长条，不好使用。而如果采用A模式，可以得到64%的建筑面积和36%的空地面积，更重要的是空地集中于中央位置，不但比空地面积同样占36%的C模式要好用得多，也比空地面积达64%的B模式要优越。因此从空间的角度完全可以证明合院式住宅的用地效率是最高的，既可以得到充足的建筑面积，又可以同时获取宽敞的庭院，一举两得。
Some scholars have analyzed the difference between the heyuan layout and the separate layout. We may divide a square plot into 100 (10×10) squares and discuss the possibilities of demarking structures and open ground (Fig. 1-1-18). Model A is a heyuan, with the structures around the yard, while Models B and C place separate structures at the center of the yard. In Model B, the structures only cover 36% of the area and the open ground cover 64%; in Model C, the structures cover 64% and the open ground covers 36%, but it only consists of long, narrow strips, which are difficult to use. In Model A, the structures cover 64% and the open ground cover 36%; more importantly, all the open ground is at the center. Thus, Model A is much easier to use than Model C, in which the open ground also covers 36%, but it is also better than Model B, in which the open ground covers as much as 64%. Thus, spatially speaking, heyuan permits the most efficient use of land, providing at once an abundant floor area and a spacious yard.
相比而言，中国人对合院式住宅显然更偏爱一些，其形制也更为成熟。中国的封建社会长达两千多年，形成了一整套严密的社会行为规范，而合院住宅所具有的防卫严密、内向稳定、秩序井然的特点正与这套规范高度吻合，因此也在岁月的长河中不但得到强化，从而形成了独特的中国式合院住宅系统。北京四合院正是这个系统中最完备的一种类型。
Comparatively speaking, the Chinese obviously prefer heyuan, which is also more mature in form. The Chinese feudal society, which lasted over 2,000 years, acquired a rigid code of social conduct, with which heyuan, characterized by secure defense, introversion, stability and orderliness, was perfectly consistent. These features were continually intensified over the centuries, giving rise to a unique system of Chinese heyuan, in which Beijing siheyuan stands out as the best equipped variety.
2 从元大都到明清北京
2. From Dadu of Yuan to Beijing of Ming and Qing
四合院是北京城的基本组成单位，与城市的关系十分密切。
The siheyuan, a basic component of Beijing, is closely related to the city.
北京建城于周朝初年，为诸侯蓟国的都城，后被燕国吞并。秦朝一统天下，北京地区属广阳郡。汉代时先后成为燕国、广阳国等诸侯封国，后收归朝廷管辖，改称幽州、广阳郡，一直延续到魏、西晋时期，均为北方重要的州郡。十六国时期曾一度为前燕之都城，北魏时期仍为幽州治所，隋代改称涿郡，唐代又改为幽州，成为历任节度使驻扎的重地，安史之乱时安禄山即以此为根据地兴兵进犯长安。
Beijing was founded at the beginning of the Zhou Dynasty as the capital of Ji, a feudal state, and it was later annexed by Yan. After the Qin Dynasty unified China, Beijing became part of the Prefecture of Guangyang. In the Han Dynasty, it was successively the fiefdom of Yan, Guangyang and other fiefdoms before it was owned by the state and renamed Youzhou and then the Prefecture of Guangyang. It continued to be an important prefecture in the north till the Wei and the Western Jin Dynasties. It was the capital of the Former Yan Dynasty for a time during the period of the Sixteen States. It remained the seat of the local government of Youzhou in the Northern Wei Dynasty. It was renamed the Prefecture of Zhu in the Sui Dynasty, and the name was changed back to Youzhou in the Tang Dynasty, when the successive governors were stationed there. An Lushan used it as the base for attacking Changán during the rebellion of himself and Shi Siming.
后晋皇帝石敬瑭把燕云十六州割与辽国，幽州也在其中，后被辽太宗定为南京，繁华冠于全辽。金灭辽后，幽州为其所占，海陵王完颜亮将都城从上京会宁府迁来此地，改称中都，自此北京地区由陪都而升格为正式的王朝都城，大加扩建，辉煌华丽，远胜昔日。
Emperor Shi Jingtang of the Later Jin Dynasty ceded sixteen prefectures to the state of Liao, and Youzhou was among them. Later, Emperor Taizong of Liao made it the Southern Capital, and it became the most prosperous city in the whole country. It was occupied by the Jin Dynasty, which overthrew the Liao Dynasty. Wanyan Liang, of King of Hailing, moved his capital here from Huining, the Upper Capital, and renamed it the Central Capital. Thus Beijing was promoted from the rank of a secondary capital to that of an official imperial capital. It was extensively expanded and became much more magnificent than before.
蒙古灭金，中都遭到较大破坏。元世祖忽必烈登上汗位后，于至元元年（1264年）在原金中都城的东北开始建造新城，至元八年（1271年）定国号为“元”，至元九年（1272年）将都城之名定为大都。随着元朝进一步攻灭南宋，北京地区历史上首次成为统一的全国性政权的首都。大都就是“宏大之都”的意思，由汉族官员刘秉忠和阿拉伯人也黑迭儿主持规划设计，一方面以规整有序的城市结构继承了汉文化都城的传统理念，另一方面又体现了游牧民族重视水泉的习俗（图1-2-01）。
The Central Capital was badly damaged during the war by which the Mongolians overthrew the Jin Dynasty. After he ascended the throne, Kublai Khan began to build a new city to the northeast of it. He chose Yuan as the title of his dynasty in 1271, the eighth year of Zhiyuan, and named the capital Dadu in 1272. After the Yuan Dynasty overthrew the Southern Song Dynasty, the Beijing region became for the first time the capital of a unified national regime. Dadu means 'the grand capital'. Its design, presided over by Han official Liu Bingzhong and an Arabian called Amir al-Din, followed the traditional idea of capital in Han culture in terms of its orderly layout and embodies the customary importance attached to water and springs by the nomadic people (Fig. 1-2-01).
城的平面接近正方形，东西宽6650米，南北长7400米，总面积接近5000公顷。都城外城的南、东、西三面各设三座城门，北面设两座城门，南部中央建皇城，皇城的中央偏东建宫城，内外形成三重城墙。城市的主要干道均与城门相通，干道之间则是纵横交错的街巷和胡同，其中分布着大量的寺庙、衙署、店铺和无数的住宅。
The city had a roughly square plan, with a width of 6,650 meters from east to west, a length of 7,400 meters from north to south, and a total area of nearly 5,000 hectares. There were three gates in the south, east and west sides of the outer city wall and two gates in its north side. There was an imperial city at the center of the southern part, and a palatial city to the east of the center of the imperial city, with three city walls from the inside to the outside. All the main roads in the city led to the city gates. Between the main roads were crisscross streets and alleys, between which were many temples, government offices, shops and numerous dwelling houses.
蒙古人长期以游牧方式生活，“逐水草而居”，尤其喜欢在水泉丰富、青草茂盛的地方驻扎。决定定都以后，特意选择了两片大的湖面作为城市的中心，成为中国历史上都城建设的首创之举。蒙古人习惯上把湖称作“海”，这两片水面被分别定名为“太液池”和“海子”，这就是今天中南海、北海与什刹海的前身。
The Mongolians, being a nomadic people, preferred to be stationed at places with abundant water and lush grass. Having decided to make Beijing their capital, they chose two large lakes as its center, which was unprecedented in the history of the construction of Chinese capitals. Since lakes were called hai in their language, the two lakes were named the Taiye Lake and Haizi, preceding today's Zhongnanhai, Beihai and Shichahai.
元代以前的北京地区的住宅没有留下多少遗迹，现存最早的四合院遗址是元代的“后英房”，位于安定门一带。根据挖掘的平面推断，这处四合院已经分设前后两个院子，并在后院的四面分别建有房屋，形成四面围合的形式，比较特别是其南房和北房之间还建了一条廊子，把二者串连在一起，构成“工”字形的格局（图1-2-02）。这种建筑样式在宋代的绘画中很常见，说明元大都虽然是游牧民族所建的都城，其中的住宅却受到宋代汉族住宅的较大影响。
There are few remains of dwelling houses dating from before the Yuan Dynasty in the Beijing region. The oldest ruins of a siheyuan are those of Houying House of the Yuan Dynasty at Andingmen. The excavated plan suggests that it consisted of a front yard and a back one, which was enclosed on the four sides by houses. A special feature is a veranda between the south house and the north house, which links the two to form an I-shaped layout (Fig. 1-2-02). The fact that the form is common in Song paintings indicates a heavy influence of Han houses of the Song Dynasty on the houses in Dadu although it was a capital built by a nomadic people.
元末爆发了农民大起义，明太祖朱元璋于洪武元年（1368年）在南京建立了明朝，并派大将徐达北伐，元朝末代皇帝元顺帝逃往大漠。大都被改为北平府，并进行了改造，城墙向南作了偏移，北侧部分地区被排除在城墙之外。北平是燕王朱棣的封地，后来朱棣从这里起兵南征，夺取了侄儿建文帝的皇位，成为明成祖。为了便于防御北方蒙古部落卷土重来，成祖把北平改为北京，并把都城重新迁回这里。从此北京成为明清两代长达500多年的首都。
A great peasants' rebellion broke out towards the end of the Yuan Dynasty, and Zhu Yuanzhang founded the Ming Dynasty in Nanjing in 1368, the first year of Hongwu. He sent General Xu Da on a northern expedition, which drove the last emperor of Yuan into the desert. Dadu was renamed Beiping and transformed. The city walls were moved south, and part of the north side was left outside. Beiping was given to Zhu Di, or Prince of Yan, as his fiefdom. Later, he mounted a southern expedition from here, seized the throne from his nephew Emperor Jianwen, and proclaimed himself Emperor Chengzu. For more effective defense against the northern Mongolian tribes, he renamed the city Beijing and moved the capital back here. From then on, Beijing was the capital of the Ming and Qing Dynasties for over 500 years.
明朝嘉靖三十二年（1553年），为了加强对城南坛庙和商业区、居民区的保卫，在原来城墙的南面增加了一圈外城，这样北京就拥有了外城、内城、皇城、宫城四重城墙，平面形状呈“凸”字形（图1-2-03）。外城东西宽7950米，南北长3100米，南面正中设永定门，两端分别为左安门、右安门，东西两侧有广渠门和广宁门。内城东西宽6650米，南北长5350米，南侧正中设正阳门，左右为崇文、宣武二门，东侧有朝阳门、东直门，西侧有阜成门、西直门，北侧有安定门、德胜门。
In 1553, the 32nd year of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty, for better defense of the temples in the south of the city and its commercial and residential areas, an outer wall was built to the south of the original city walls. Thus, Beijing had four city walls--the outer wall, the inner wall, the wall of the imperial city, and the wall of the palatial city, with a T-shaped plan (Fig. 12-03). The outer wall was 7,950 meters from east to west and 3,100 meters from north to south, with Yongding Gate at the center of the south side, Zuo'an Gate and You'an Gate at both ends of the side, Guangqu Gate in the east, and Guangning Gate in the west. The inner wall was 6,650 meters from east to west and 5,350 meters from north to south, with Zhengyang Gate at the center of the south side, which was flanked by Chongwen Gate and Xuanwu Gate, Chaoyang Gate and Dongzhi Gate in the east side, Fucheng Gate and Xizhi Gate in the west, and Anding Gate and Desheng Gate in the north.
皇城位于内城中心偏南的位置，东西宽2500米，南北长2750米，平面呈不规则的方向，其中容纳宫城和中、南、北三海。皇城南侧中央设正门天安门，北侧中央设地安门。
The imperial city, located to the south of the center of the area within the inner wall, was 2,500 meters wide from east to west and 2,750 meters long from north to south, with an irregular plan containing the palatial city and the middle, south and north lakes. There were Tiananmen, the main gate, at the center of the south side of the imperial city and Dián Gate at the center of the north side.
宫城就是紫禁城，东西宽760米，南北厂960米，平面是很规整的长方形，南侧中央是正门午门，东西两侧设东华、西华二门，北侧是神武门，宫墙的四角还分别建有角楼。
The palatial city, or the Forbidden City, was 760 meters wide from east to west and 960 meters long from north to south, with a regular rectangular plan. There was the Meridian Gate, the main gate, at the center of the south side, East Prosperity Gate and West Prosperity Gate in the east and west, Gate of Divine Prowess in the north, and turrets at the four corners of the wall.
明清的北京城拥有一条长达7.5公里的中轴线，从南面的永定门开始，一直延伸到城北的钟楼、鼓楼，最重要的城门和宫殿都坐落在这条象征着皇权威严的中轴线上，高潮起伏，极为壮观。中轴线两侧分别布置着天坛和先农坛、太庙和社稷坛，在城市的东、西、北三侧还分别建有日坛、月坛和地坛。
Beijing of the Ming and Qing Dynasties had a 7.5-km-long central axis which started from Yongding Gate in the south to the bell tower and drum tower in the north. All the most important city gates and palaces stood on the axis, which symbolized the awesome dignity of the imperial power, presenting a spectacle of architectural wonders. On both sides of the axis were Temple of Heaven, Temple of Agriculture, the Imperial Ancestral Temple and Altar of Land and Grain. In the east, west and north of the city were Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Moon, and Temple of Earth.
老北京有句俗语叫“东富西贵，南贫北贱”，说的是北京城不同区域居民分布的贫富差异。从明代开始，通过运河从江南运来的禄米都储藏在东城的仓库中，很多富商也住在东城，故称“东富”；而西城则聚集了很多达官贵人的邸宅，所以叫“西贵”。城市北部以小买卖人和手工艺人为多，旧时把这些职业视作“贱业”，所以叫“北贱”；城市南部的外城胡同和四合院的格局最为狭小，居民以社会底层和外地人为主，因此叫“南贫”。这不过是泛泛而论，实际上在不同的历史时期也会有很多例外的情况，比如清代初期的外城就曾经有过很多大官的豪宅以及花园，而东城和西城同样也有不少既不富也不贵的普通民宅。
A popular saying of Old Beijing goes to the effect that the wealthy lived in the east, the noble in the west, the poor in the south, and the lowly in the north. From the Ming Dynasty, rice for officials transported through the canal from the region south of the Yangtze was stored in warehouses in the east, and many wealthy merchants lived there. The mansions of senior officials were gathered in the west. The north was dominated by vendors and craftsmen, whose work was considered lowly. People of the lower class and those from out of town lived in hutong and siheyuan in the outer city in the south, which were the most cramped houses in the city. Such was the general case, and there were exceptions in different periods. For instance, there were mansions and gardens of many senior officials in the outer city in the early Qing Dynasty, and there were also common houses dwelled by people who were neither rich nor powerful in the east and the west.
清朝灭亡之后，王公贵族们丧失了昔日的特权和财富来源，日益窘困，北京城中的无数豪府名宅也失去了华贵的色彩。但北京依旧是北洋政府的首都，新的达官贵人和富商巨贾重新在此聚集，这些上层人物依然住在四合院中。于是许多大宅子陆续换了主人，又有一些新的四合院建造起来。
After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, the princes and nobles, deprived of their privileges and sources of wealth, came down in the world, and the numerous mansions in Beijing lost their splendor and luxury. However, the city remained the capital of the Northern Warlord government. The new senior officials and wealthy merchants gathered in Beijing and continued to live in siheyuan. Many mansions were taken over by new owners, and new siheyuan were built.
解放以后，很多原本独门独户的四合院变成了多户人家共处的大杂院，人口密度过大，私搭乱建很多，环境恶化，导致四合院原有的优点荡然无存。更多的四合院被拆除以腾出空地建造新楼，于是这些充满历史韵味的老宅院越来越少，令人扼腕叹息。
After 1949, many siheyuan, which used to be dwelled by single households, began to be shared by several households. They were deprived of their merits by over-population, unauthorized construction and the worsening of environment. More siheyuan were demolished to make room for new buildings. The dwindling of such historic houses is deeply regrettable.
3 胡同空间
3. Hutong
说北京四合院，不能不提到北京的胡同。北京城曾经拥有过几千条胡同，四合院就分布在这些长短宽窄不一的胡同之中。
We cannot discuss Beijing siheyuan without mentioning hutong. Beijing used to have thousands of hutong of various lengths and widths, and siheyuan were distributed among them.
“胡同”这个名字始于元代，对于其具体的含义至今仍有不同说法：有人说是“火弄”（特指小巷）的意思，有人说是“浩特”（蒙语“城市”）的谐音，也有学者坚持认为是蒙语“水井”之意。
The name hutong dates from the Yuan Dynasty, and there are still controversies over its meaning. Some say its means 'narrow alley', and some say it is a homophone of haote, the Mongolian word for 'city'. Some scholars insist that it means 'well' in Mongolian.
北京到底有多少条胡同？不同的历史时期数字是不一样。翁立先生《北京的胡同》一书做了一个统计，认为元朝大概有413条，明朝大约有1170条，清朝大约有2077条，民国晚期的1944年则有3200条 。解放后随着城市建设不断发展，北京的胡同日益减少，现在已经不足千条了。
How many hutong are there in Beijing? The number varied during different periods. Mr. Wengli made a census in his book Hutong in Beijing, proposing that there were about 413 in the Yuan Dynasty, 1,170 in the Ming Dynasty, 2,077 in the Qing Dynasty, and 3,200 in 1944 in the late Republican Period . Since 1949, the progress of urban construction has caused a steady decrease of hutong in Beijing, which number less than a thousand today.
元大都时期把城市道路分为大街、小街、胡同三级，其中大街宽24步（约37.2米）；小街宽度是大街的一半，12步（约18.6米）；胡同宽是小街的一半，6步（约9.3米）。街一般是干道，比较宽，两边常常开设店铺；胡同是最小单位的道路，因此比较窄。这个交通系统被后代继承了下来，但经过明清、民国的长期演变之后，北京城不同胡同的宽度差异很大，最窄的胡同还不足1米，例如崇文门外东珠市口的高筱胡同仅宽65厘米，天桥西的小喇叭胡同最窄处只有55厘米，成为名副其实的“羊肠小道”。另外少数胡同以“巷”为名，还有一些名字叫“街”的道路其实也是胡同。
In Dadu of Yuan, the urban streets were classified into avenues, streets and hutong. An avenue is twenty-four paces, or about 37.2 meters wide; a street had half of that width, which was twelve paces or 18.6 meters; a hutong had a width of six paces, or 9.3 meters. Most of the avenues and streets were main roads, which were fairly wide and lined with shops, while hutong were the narrowest paths. The system of communication was taken over by later dynasties. However, due to the changes during the Ming Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty and the Republican period, there is a wide difference between the widths of hutong, the narrowest being less than one meter wide. For instance, Gaoxiao Hutong at East Zhushikou outside Chongwen Gate is only sixty-five centimeters wide; Xiaolaba ('little trumpet') Hutong to the west of Tianqiao is only fifty-five centimeters across at the narrowest point. A minority of hutong are called 'alleys', and some roads called 'streets' are actually hutong.
由于北京城市格局很方正，所以大部分胡同也都是很规矩的直线，而且以东西走向的为多。一些胡同的名字带有方位词，以作特别的强调，比如东花枝胡同、西大胡同、南板桥胡同、北半截胡同。这种城市格局赋予北京人很强烈的方位感，至今北京人为外地人指路，还喜欢说向东、往南、朝北等等，不像其他地方一般说往左、朝右。但城市毕竟不是军营，不可能像棋盘一样绝对整齐，北京城中也有一些地区，比如什刹海周围、宣武门外等地方由于临近河道、水系或者其他历史原因，其中的许多胡同是自由的斜向。这些斜胡同大多不叫“胡同”而叫“某某斜街”，比如什刹海地区的白米斜街，前门大栅栏地区的樱桃斜街、杨梅竹斜街，西单地区的东斜街、西斜街，宣武门外的上斜街、下斜街等等。这些斜胡同两边的四合院也都采取相对自由的布局和朝向。
Due to the regular layout of Beijing, most hutong are straight lines running from east to west. The names of some contain directional words for emphasix, for instance, East Huazhi Hutong, Great West Hutong, South Banqiao Hutong and North Banjie Hutong. The urban layout gives Beijingers a strong sense of direction. When they show the way for people from out of town, they say 'to the east', 'to the south' or 'to the north', instead of saying 'to the left' or 'to the right', as people in other places do. However, a city is not a barracks after all, and it cannot be as regular as a chessboard. In some parts of the city, say the places around Shichahai and outside Xuanwumen, many hutong are freely oblique due to proximity to rivers, water systems or other historical reasons. Most of them are called 'slanting streets' instead of hutong, for instance, Baimi Slanting Street in the Shichahai area, Yingtao Slanting Street and Yangmeizhu Slanting Street in the Dashila area at Qianmen, East Slanting Street and West Slanting Street in Xidan, and Upper Slanting Street and Lower Slanting Street outside Xuanwumen. The siheyuan on both sides of these slanting hutonng also have freer layout and orientation.
北京的胡同名称多姿多彩，有的表示行业的特色，例如金箔胡同、麻线胡同、锡蜡胡同、胭脂胡同等等；有的胡同因为有大官住过而特意以其官衔爵位为名，比如文丞相胡同、李阁老胡同、蒋大人胡同、石驸马胡同、广宁伯胡同等等；有的胡同直接以平民百姓为名，比如吴老儿胡同、宋姑娘胡同、王寡妇斜街等等；有的胡同中有官衙机构驻扎，故以此为名，如太仆寺胡同、府学胡同、太医院胡同、织染局胡同、禄米仓胡同、东厂胡同等等；很多胡同以某座重要的建筑为名，如砖塔胡同、宝禅寺胡同，甚至这些建筑消失之后，胡同的名字却依旧保持；有的按照胡同的形状来命名，比如弯弯的就叫弓背胡同、月牙儿胡同、玉带胡同，宽长方形的叫盒子胡同、抽屉胡同，细长的称笔管胡同、箭杆胡同；有的以胡同中的特色植物为名，如枣林胡同、椿树胡同、柳树胡同。还有一些胡同的名字带有北京方言中特有的儿化音，例如帽儿胡同、雨儿胡同、菊儿胡同等等，叫起来就好像是一个小孩的乳名，透着一股亲切的味道。
Beijing hutong have diverse names. Some denote trades, such as Gold Foil Hutong, Flaxen Thread Hutong, Tin Wax Hutong and Rouge c. Some were named after senior officials who used to live there, such as Prime Minister Wen Hutong, His Excellency Li Hutong, His Grace Jiang Hutong, Imperial Son-in-law Shi Hutong and Earl of Guangning Hutong. Some were named after common people, such as Old Man Wu Hutong, Young Girl Song Hutong and Widow Wang Slanting Street. Some were named after government offices, such as Imperial Horse Department Hutong, Prefectural School Hutong, Imperial Physicians' Academy Hutong, Weaving and Dyeing Bureau Hutong, Rice Storage Hutong and Dongchang (secret police set up by Ming eunuchs) Hutong. Many were named after prominent structures, such as Brick Pagoda Hutong and Baochan Temple Hutong, and they retain their names when the structures are gone. Some were named after their shapes. For instance, curved ones are called Hunchback Hutong, Crescent Hutong or Jade Belt Hutong, rectangular ones are called Box Hutong or Drawer Hutong, and long and narrow ones are called Penholder Hutong or Arrow Shaft Hutong. Some were named after characteristic plants, such as Date Wood Hutong, Chinese Toon Hutong and Willow Hutong. The names of some have the characteristic r-final in Beijing dialect, such as Mao'r (Hat) Hutong, Yu'r (Rain) Hutong and Ju'r (Chrysanthemum) Hutong, which sound like affectionate pet names given to children.
随着历史的演进，很多胡同的名字也会有所变更，大多数是以谐音转换，由比较粗俗或者不吉利的名字改为更典雅的称呼，比如驴市胡同改称礼士胡同，裤子胡同改为库资胡同，劈材胡同变成辟才胡同。
As time went by, the names of some hutong were changed. For the most part, vulgar or inauspicious names were replaced by more elegant homophones. For instance, Lüshi (donkey market) Hutong was renamed Lishi (courteous treatment of the literati) Hutong, Kuzi (pants) Hutong became Kuzi (different characters, meaning 'stored assets') Hutong, and Picai (cleaving timber) Hutong became Picai (different characters, meaning 'developing talent') Hutong.
早先的胡同口经常设置栅栏，夜间关闭，以加强胡同居民区的安全保卫。后来这些栅栏都消失了，但也留下了双栅栏胡同、二道栅栏胡同等等名称。
There used to be fences at the entrances to hutong, which were closed at night for security. Though they have been removed, they left such names as Double Fence Hutong and Second Fence Hutong.
在一些区域，若干条胡同往往围绕一条大的街道展开，形成一大片规整的胡同区，比如东四、西四、南北锣鼓巷地区，至今仍是北京重要的胡同历史 |
|
中文版 
English
